Shwe Mann Taung; piece of jade in a historic setting

By Rahul Banerji

After a week and more of travel, sightseeing, culture and food, it was time to take a step back and grab some breath. What better way to do that than put in some yards on the fairways and greens.

Mandalay lies at the heart of Myanmar, an Imperial capital till it fell to British forces late in the 19^th century. It was and is an important religious centre and has now become a major tourist hub as much-visited sites like Bagan and Inle Lake are driving distance away.

It is also the closest large city on the journey to the northern and western borders of the country, including the only open land border crossing between India and Myanmar at Moreh-Tamu, which itself is a near 12-hour drive upcountry to the north-west.

By virtue of its location, Mandalay is a meeting point for many streams of local cuisine, and arguably the spiritual home of the khao suey, a Shan-origin soup and noodle delicacy that is the best known Burmese dish on many Indian tables.

Golfing hub

Mandalay is also in its own way a golf hub. The Shwe Mann Taung Golf Resort sits in the heart of the city. In the nearby uplands is the Yay Dagon Taung Golf Resort while the Myotha National is a 90-minute drive from the city.

Green fees vary between $120 (Myotha) and $60 (Shwe Mann Taung, Yay Dagon) and each course is a unique experience, Myotha set in a sprawling new industrial city, Yay Dagon providing a hilly challenge and Shwe Mann right in the city.

So it was time to take on the pristine Shwe Mann Taung on a morning out with course manager Vijay Divakaran, and three local pros, Messrs Zaw Oo, Moe Tin, Yan Naung. At stake, a reasonable pile of money and my (questionable) golfing reputation.

That status soon lay in tatters. Up against boys who hit straight and long, racking up pars one after the other as we went along (Shwe Mann Taung by the way, allows five-ball groups too), I was up against it big time.

Vijay and I had been in touch for almost two months leading up to our meeting at his attractive and beautifully-laid out course, which catches the eye from atop Mandalay Hill with its compact design and superb maintenance.

Well looked-after

The extent of that care and attention becomes evident within minutes of venturing out on to the course. The fairways are well-mowed and roughs neatly trimmed. Greens are even and between the two, those on the back nine are definitely quicker (I nailed a 50-footer on the 18^th for par and it needed just a little bit more than a tap).

Three holes in particular stand out on this course. The closing hole on the front nine is a brute and the landscaping is such that the green is largely hidden – and protected by two massive ponds – that make it the toughest on the course.

The choice is to be brave (foolish?) and go at the green as hard as possible, or lay up (twice if need be to at least see where you need to go) before aiming for the flag.

If that was hard, the Shwe Mann Taung has two further tests, the signature par-3 11^th hole and the 18^th. The first of these two is only 144 yards, but all of it over water.

shwemanntaung.com/hole-by-hole-guide

The green has another pond guarding its left. On the right is a large bunker so accuracy (or extra balls in the bag) are key.

Tough challenge

The par-5 18^th is rated as the second toughest on this course, a long dog-leg left with the turn way down the fairway.

Making it even more fun is the fact that the approach is dotted with bunkers on either side of the fairway and cunningly located in terms of distance. Get it wrong and you are neck deep in trouble.

Barring the odd patch, my game had largely resembled an unsightly blob of mashed potatoes till here. But ending well sometimes tends to bury the sorry past and against the odds, I put a par on the card at just the right time, on in four and burying a 50-footer from the edge of the green that also beat the rest of the group, pros and all.

Nice!!

Renovated twice in the past five years, Shwe Mann Taung has a spanking new clubhouse, a restaurant and resort to be opened soon. Well-located and well-maintained, it is also wise to check out its terms for single-ball play.

Other than that, this 6,600-yard spread is a delight with largely Bermuda Common (front nine) and Zoysia Zeon grass on the fairways and Bermuda Austin/Bermuda Champion used for the greens on either side of the turn.

Shew Mann Taung Gree fees and caddy rates:
9 holes – $30; 18 holes – $60; corresponding caddy fee $10 and $20; buggy fee $15 and $30

Also read: Stranded, and rescued, in the nick of time on Myanmar sojourn